A sixteen year odyssey across the backroads of America during the ultimate College Football roadtrip.

Tag: 2013 (Page 3 of 7)

New Mexico State vs Boston College – Eagles squeak by the Aggies…

It’s an early wake up call on Saturday morning after my University of New Mexico tilt the night before. A three hour drive from Albuquerque down to Las Cruces awaits, but I linger long enough to belly up to the breakfast counter at Golden Pride BBQ. Although the three letters of B-B-Q in the name are enticing, it’s the famed green chile breakfast burritos that I am truly here for. I order up the infamous #9 at Golden Pride – a breakfast burrito with eggs cheese, potatoes, bacon and green chile; considered a classic among New Mexican breakfast circles. I go off menu for my second burrito, and order one with the spicy red carne adovada I was introduced to the day before (pork slow roasted in thick red chili sauce) in lieu of bacon. The carne adovada, especially, may be the best breakfast burrito I’ve ever had…

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From Albuquerque, I cruise south down Interstate 25 humming the little rental shitbox past 80 miles an hour. At 85 the Kia starts to shake and rattle violently, so I set the speed control at a comfortable 82mph for the three hour cruise into Las Cruces. The undulating highways are a pleasure to drive here, wide open and free, with only the occasional ranch truck thundering by. The pastel desert expanse of New Mexico is captivating, as ancient volcanic rock monoliths jut out of the sagebrush covered high desert plains. Although I’ve driven extensively through the American Southwest, I never cease to be humbled by the sheer vastness of it all.

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I stop for lunch in Hatch, New Mexico – the Graceland of chili peppers. It’s here in the Hatch Valley, where, due to the unique soil of the Rio Grande and consistent climate conditions, some of the finest chili peppers in the world are grown. This feat is celebrated at the annual Hatch Chili Festival, where the small town of 1,600 swells to nearly 30,000 pepper heads looking to get their capsaicin fix for a weekend.

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I order lunch at the Pepper Pot Restaurant, once featured on an episode of No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain, as the TV celebrity cruised through the American Southwest. I order up a few beef sopapillas here, this time opting for my meal served “Christmas style”. In the parlance of New Mexico eateries, this means half the dish smothered in green chili sauce, and the other half smothered in red chili. Having sampled both a few times now, I start to lean towards the earthy smokiness and gradual, building heat of the red chili.

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I’m so enamored with the chilis in fact, that I saunter across the street to one of the scores of chili pepper shops lining the streets of Hatch. Hanging bunches and wreaths of red chilis hang throughout the tiny building, while burlap sacks full of them line the floor. I pick out a smaller bunch of the fiery delights for eight dollars, the perfect size to smuggle back to St. Louis in my carry on luggage.

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From there, I head straight into Las Cruces, pulling into the large gravel parking lots that surround New Mexico State’s Aggie Memorial Stadium. The Pride of New Mexico State Marching Band, self dubbed “The most dangerous marching band in the world” (for reasons I’m unable to decipher), is out in force in the parking lot surrounding tailgates and regaling them with brassy notes for the contest ahead. I chat up a couple former Marines hosting a tailgate from a few massive military surplus trucks in the parking lot, one a 2.5 ton “deuce and a half”, and the other a full 5 ton military cargo truck. The larger one, bought for a thrifty $5,100 at a government surplus auction, is used to haul the owners 35 foot boat to nearby Caballo Lake State Park. The rough road and deep sand on the lake approach make such a heavy off road truck a necessity. They also make a rather formidable tailgating gauntlet, in my humble opinion.

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Approaching the stadium, the place looks like a ghost town, and there are certainly no scalpers or ticket resellers of any kind. Forced to use the tiny box office (and actually happy to throw a little extra revenue towards NMSU), I ask the girl behind the plastic window for the best ticket she can give me. For $25 bucks, she slides a front row, 50 yard line seat back underneath the glass – only an hour before kickoff. Maybe these smaller stadiums aren’t so bad after all…

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It’s a crystal blue sky overhead, and a bright sunny day for football in southern New Mexico. I spread out on my front row aluminum bench (there’s plenty of room around me) only a few feet away from the team bench on the field. Shortly after the Aggies take the field through a giant inflatable helmet, they receive the kickoff from the formidable Boston College Eagles. After a quick three and out, the Aggies 4th down punt is muffed by the BC receiver and NMSU recovers on the 29 yard line. Shortly after, Aggie place kicker Maxwell Johnson boots a field goal through the uprights and the farmers take an early 3-0 lead.

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Up close, the genetic talent gap between an elite Division 1 team like Boston College and a perennial struggler like New Mexico State becomes readily apparent. BC sports an offensive line full of mastodons that toss the Aggie rushers around at will, while their skill position players ripple with lean muscle and athleticism. The Aggies, on the other hand, have more than a few guys on the team built like Jack Black, and the entire squad is noticeably slower and outsized across the board. Adding to their woes, the Aggies are horribly undisciplined. Receivers drop easy passes, the O-Line is plagued by false starts, and a coach vociferously lambastes the team on the sidelines so loudly that the entire crowd can hear. In all, I count 7 penalties for New Mexico State in the first half alone. Yet, inexplicably, the Aggies pluckily hang around and head into the tunnel at halftime only down by a field goal – BC 20 NMSU 17.

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In the second half, amazingly, the Aggies manage to hold on and make a game of it. When BC stuffs in a 3rd quarter touchdown, NMSU responds. During the break after the end of the 3rd quarter, a marriage proposal is given on the field. Jordan bends the knee and proposes to his girlfriend Julia, to the delight of all 14,977 in attendance that afternoon. Shortly after the fourth quarter gets underway, as the shadows dip lower into the Aggie Memorial bowl, New Mexico State connects on a 32 yard field goal to knot the score at 27. After a few touchdowns are exchanged, improbably, the Aggies are tied with Boston College with 8:07 remaining in the fourth quarter. The crowd collectively roars to life with the prospect of a miracle upset.

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But the joy was short lived. With the Eagles pinned deep in their own territory, Heisman contending BC running back Andre Williams bursts through the line, trampling over the hapless Aggies with his oxen like legs. He blazes 80 yards down the field for a touchdown, hushing the NMSU crowd and their cowbells (which are rung frantically on third downs) are silenced. On the ensuing Aggie possession, quarterback Andrew McDonald quickly fires an untimely interception, dashing their hopes for a response. Shortly after, Williams blasts through the line again for his second touchdown run, this time for 47 yards. Bringing his total to a productive 295 yards on the day, Andre Williams puts the nail in the coffin, and the Eagles slip away with a much closer win than the 48-34 final score would belie.

Full Clickthrough gallery below

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New Mexico vs Airforce – Lobos ground the Falcons…

In the pantheon of the college football world, the state of New Mexico is hardly a destination for hardcore aficionados of the sport. The remote schools spread throughout the Mountain West Athletic Conference don’t have quite the same allure as the bastions of the SEC and modest stadium sizes reflect only a passing interest in the game. But the levels of my college football depravity extend well beyond the norm, and the appeal of catching a doubleheader in the Land of Enchantment had me clicking away on Southwest.com a few weeks ago. With the New Mexico Lobos playing a Friday night tilt in Albuquerque, followed by a Saturday afternoon matinee at New Mexico State in Las Cruces, my dance card was quickly filled for the weekend. There would be just enough time in between to consume as much New Mexican cuisine as humanly possible.

Touching down on Friday afternoon after intentionally starving myself on the plane ride, I make a bee line for Mary & Tito’s, a classic New Mexican joint on 4th Street in Albuquerque. It’s here where I am first introduced to Carne Adovada – shredded pork slowly braised in New Mexican red chili sauce. I quickly conclude that there are two kinds of people in this world 1. people who have tried Carne Adovada and love it; and 2. people who NEED to try Carne Adovada.

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I order mine in the form of a stuffed sopapilla, and the thick, rust colored sauce is earthy and smoky, with a rich depth of chili heat that pairs perfectly with sweet morsels of tender pork. Green chili enchiladas offset my formidable order, but the carne adovada steals the show. They take their craft seriously here at Mary & Tito’s too. When a girl at an adjacent table tries to customize her burrito off the menu, the waiter informs them that the kitchen guys are pretty surly – only making the food “the way it should be made”. They patently refuse to accommodate her prissy requests. After my mind blowing introduction to carne adovada, I can only salute their resolute hard headedness.

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From there I make a quick visit to Petroglyph National Monument, situated on the outskirts of Albuquerque. Home to thousands of designs and symbols carved into the stone by the Pueblo Indians hundreds of years ago, the petroglyphs were chiseled into the black “desert varnish” of the stone to reveal the patterns in white below. A small trail winds through the rocky hillside amongst the more defined images, while great, vessicular black basalt boulders are strewn throughout the landscape, spewed by a massive volcano as recent as 150,000 years ago.

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Later in the day, as the sun starts to fade in a brilliant coral New Mexican sunset, I walk towards the stadium. A faint echo of thumping bass whispers in the distance. Drawing nearer, the bass grows louder, and I assume it’s some annoying, chromed out, jalopy lowrider thumping out hip hop tunes a couple blocks away. Approaching the south end of the stadium, however, the acoustic culprit reveals himself – a full on student rave on the lawn next to the Lobos field house. A thousand or so solo cup clutching students bob away to the crashing tunes of DJ UWR pumping out of the loudspeakers, while lasers and colored lights flash over the crowd. I’m not sure who sponsors the raucous affair, but if it draws more students to the games and gets them fired up for the contest ahead, than it’s a clever way to instill more energy into University Stadium. They have my full endorsement.

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Circling the stadium, there’s a noticeable lack of scalpers or ticket resellers of any kind. Given the plethora of tickets for sale at the ticket windows, there doesn’t appear to be a robust secondary market for Lobos football. After balking at the $37 price tag for a premium seat at the box office, I hustle around the streets with a finger raised in the air; determined to find something more affordable. Soon enough, a 10 year old kid approaches me with a fistful of tickets and offers me one on the 20 yard line – for FREE. I try pressing ten bucks into his hands on principle alone, but the youngster wouldn’t have it. I saunter into the stadium free of charge, bypassing the tempting $7.50 green chili cheese fries at the concession stands on my way to the seat. #44 Lobos jerseys fill the racks outside the memorabilia store, a nod to the most famous Lobo of them all – Brian Urlacher.

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Unbeknownst to me, Urlacher is actually in attendance that evening. He is honored at midfield during halftime, while a short video plays highlights of his illustrious college career as a linebacker, receiver and kick returner at the University of New Mexico. Shortly after, his number 44 is retired high atop the concrete wall of the pressbox along with a few other Lobos Legends. The soft spoken Lovington, NM native, Urlacher mutters a few words of thanks into the microphone before a standing ovation erupts from his home state crowd.

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On the field, a high desert chill sets in over the Albuquerque night. Over a mile in elevation, the aluminum benches at University Stadium offer little respite in the cold night air. The Lobos come out on the prowl, however, lumbering down the field on a methodical, modified option rushing attack. Quarterback Cole Gautsche, a 6’4” 230 lb juggernaut, barrels through the Air Force defensive line. Throwing only three passing attempts the entire night, he pounds the ball 20 times on the ground for 140 yards and two touchdowns. Meanwhile, the rest of the Lobos wild wolfpack amass over 450 yards of rushing offense, splitting the hapless Falcon defenders into disarray. It’s ironic to watch an academy team like Air Force (or Navy) – known for their traditional use of the option offense – to look so helpless in the face of that very same offense run by a “civilian” team. In the end, the Lobos run away with a 45-37 victory securing themselves amongst the middle of the Mountain West Athletic Conference pack.

Special thanks to Carmella and Audra, a couple of friendly ABQ residents that I met in the stands.  Appreciate the hospitality and the invite, and next time I definitely won’t miss a chance at some home made carne adovada!

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Full clickthrough gallery below…

 

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Boston College vs Virginia Tech – Eagles soar over the Hokies…

Spending a weekend at home in Western Massachusetts, the trip to Boston College was a last minute decision, but a great chance to sneak a quick game in at a venue I had never seen before.  My mother, ever the spontaneous adventure nut, agreed to come along and spend a sunny New England fall day watching a few helmets pop.  After an epic breakfast that only a Mom can make, we drive the two hours into Boston through the fading fall colors along Route 2.  The traffic is surprisingly light given the Red Sox World Series victory parade going on downtown, and we slide into Chestnut Hill effortlessly.  Even parking – the hellish, waterboarding nightmare that it can be in Boston – proves easy, and we slide into a free spot on Hammond Avenue a stones throw from Alumni Stadium.

We walk through the picturesque Chestnut Hill neighborhood adjacent to the Boston College Campus.  Bright autumn colors are in full bloom on the tree lined streets, both sides abutted by large New England mansions.  A few understated ranch houses are interspersed between some of the garish larger houses, but even those tiny ranches will still set you back $1.2 million dollars according to my Zillow app.  Audi’s and Range Rovers are stuffed into every driveway, and well manicured grounds belie one of the more affluent Boston suburbs.

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Making our way over to campus, the grounds are among the more picturesque I have seen on my travels, especially in context to some of the dour urban Boston campuses like Northeastern or MIT.  Massive stone clad buildings flank the main quads, and the St. Ignatius Church soars over tree lined walkways.  We tour the grounds a bit, and inspect some of the tailgating surrounding the stadium, but the overall atmosphere is rather subdued given the tight confines of the campus and insipid noon kickoff time.

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As kickoff approaches, I circle the stadium with two fingers raised in the air signaling my need for a pair of tickets.  This proves a much harder task than typical.  Boston College has rigorously cut down on scalping or reselling of any kind, and because the entire campus is private property they can enforce it vigilantly.  After making several passes to no avail, a guy finally whispers in my ear that he has two for sale, and we discreetly duck behind a few buildings to complete the sordid transaction.  Prying a few 40 yard line seats off him for $30 bucks apiece, we narrowly avoid the BC ticket Gestapo.  Given the dismal attendance numbers at Eagle games this year, perhaps they ought to consider loosening their draconian ticket policies.

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Shortly before kickoff, the Boston College teams forms a line and walks to midfield where they shake hands with the opposing Hokies.  While a half hearted post game handshake is usually the norm, I’d never witnessed a pre game handshake between the entire squads before.  When the contest kicks off, it’s a magnificent fall day for football – 60 degrees and sunny.  The stands are noticeably vacant, however, and don’t really fill up until midway through the second quarter.   Bostonians kept trickling in late to fill the grandstands, presumably after attending the Red Sox victory parade downtown.  It’s a subtle reminder that even on its best day, BC Football is only the fifth most important team in town.  But the Eagles in traditional fashion, play plucky football against presumed superior competition.  At the half they are only down by a field goal 10-7.

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As the third quarter winds on, Boston College bowling ball running back Andre Williams goes to work.  The 6’0” 227lb running back barrels through holes, shaking would be tacklers with his stout tree trunk legs.  Averaging 6.0 yards per carry this season, and already over 1,000 yards, the future looks bright for the Schnecksville, PA senior.   Late in the 4th quarter with BC leading by a touchdown after a 33 yard interception return, Williams ices the game for the Eagles.  He blasts through the Hokie defensive line unabated, streaking 62 yards down the field on a touchdown run that sets the score at 34-20, all but ending the game.  The Hokies would respond with a touchdown, but ultimately fall short, as the Eagles go on to claim the upset victory 34-27.

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On the way home we stop for a bite to eat – a lobster roll specifically.  There’s no way this New England boy is missing out on one of these ocean delights before heading back to the landlocked confines of the Midwest…

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Special thanks to my mother for coming along on a last minute trip to Boston College.  It was a pristine weekend for football, and always special to spend a day with your Mom.   Look forward to a trip next year!

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Full Clickthrough gallery below:

 

 

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Oregon vs UCLA – Ducks squeak by the Bruins…

After an epic trip to Oregon State last year, I immediately started planning another trip to the Beaver State to check out the fleet footed fluorescent older brother in town.  The Oregon Ducks, with their high powered, up tempo offense and garish uniform ensembles was one of the premier football destinations I had yet to check off my list.  My friend, and Oregon native Colin, and I poured over the Ducks home schedule nearly a year ago, carefully selecting the UCLA Bruins tilt as the marquee matchup in Eugene for 2013.  Our predictions were confirmed, when, after both teams enjoyed a terrific start to the 2013 season, the ESPN Gameday crew selected the #3 Oregon Ducks versus #12 UCLA Bruins for their weekly destination.

Colin and I touch down in Portland early, and after a trip to the rental car counter for a sporty Chevy Malibu we hustle into downtown Portland for lunch at Pok Pok.  An iconic Vietnamese restaurant that has gained considerable notoriety in food circles, we order up a wide selection of their diverse Asian menu offerings.  Obviously, in keeping with my protein heavy BBQ consumption, I contribute orders for their crispy chicken wings and baby back ribs.

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From there, we opt for a downtown dessert at the Portland institution of Voodoo Donuts where they serve up everything from plain donuts to eclectic, pink frosted, Captain Crunch covered pancreas busters.  I opt for the “Old Dirty Bastard” donut – a peanut butter and Oreo covered chocolate frosted donut.  Colin and I retreat to a table outside with Voodoo’s iconic pink box in tow, which, according to their catch phrase, “Good things come in pink boxes”.

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After picking up our third party member Donovan at the airport that afternoon, we head to Beaverton, Oregon – home of Nike.  Colin’s cousin Rob has agreed to give us an insider tour of the facilities, a sprawling 200 acre campus complete with lakes, full size playing fields and scores of sparkling new white buildings.  Not bad for a company that was started in famed Oregon track coach Bill Bowerman’s kitchen with little more than a waffle iron.  Each building is named after a famous athlete – Jordan, Griffey Jr., Tiger Woods, etc. – and bronze plaques of professional athletes line the walkways every few feet.  Every step you take at Nike is in the presence of athletic greatness, and there are dozens of displays dedicated to the historical achievements of the company and the athletes that inspired them.

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Naturally, we finish our tour at the Nike Company Store.  Accessible only to Nike employees and registered guests, all products are available at a 50% discount from retail.  Collectively, we load several shopping carts full of bright, fluorescent stretch fabrics and signature Nike orange shoe boxes.  Between the 50% discount, and no state sales tax in Oregon, it’s an impressive haul for the money.

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Saturday morning is an early wake up call.  Our friend Donovan is an avid ESPN College Gameday fan, and this will be his first opportunity to check out the zany, headgear selecting antics of Lee Corso in person.  Regardless of where the show is filmed, it airs at 9AM eastern standard time, as such we rise at 5:30 AM to make the quick jaunt south into Eugene in time for the show.  In a typical early morning Oregon “mist”, we pack into the crowded lawn in front of the Lundquist College of Business while the TV personalities go through their typical pre game analysis. Unsatisfied with the level of attention we’re getting in the dense crowd, I hoist Donovans 185lb. frame onto my shoulders while he frantically waves his neon yellow sign.  After a few minutes of mounting lower back fatigue, the tactic pays off, and Donovan becomes clearly visible on the TV feed between the talking heads.  Soon after I set him down, Lee Corso speeds off through the crowd on the back of the Oregon Ducks motorcycle after making his selection, signaling the end of the show.  Check one off the bucket list for Donovan.

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After the ESPN Gameday hoopla, we tour the sprawling, lush green Eugene campus.  The tour is highlighted by a visit to Hayward Field, home to the Oregon Track and Field team, a Mecca for any running aficionado.  With grandstands capable of holding over 10,000 fans, it’s one of only four International Class 1 tracks in the United States.  Host to several Olympic qualifying events and countless American records, the rubberized oval is where legendary head coach Bill Bowerman presided over some of the most gifted runners in the world.  A bronze statue of him standing atop a waffle iron hovers on the sidelines, the inscription reading “Teacher, Innovator, Visionary, Motivator…and then there was that waffle iron.”

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No visit to Oregon track, however, would be complete without a mention of Coos Bay, Oregon native Steve Prefontaine.  An incredibly gifted middle distance runner in the early 1970’s, Prefontaine once held the American records in 7 different middle distance events from 2,000 to 10,000 meters.  His exploits have even been chronicled in two major movies; “Without Limits” and “Prefontaine” made some 25 years after his career ended.  But it wasn’t his god given ability that Pre was known for, it was his intestinal fortitude or, quite simply Guts.  Some of his quotes have inspired runners for decades since his early demise, including his most remarkable “To give anything less than your best, is to sacrifice the gift”.

Arguably the most famous Oregon Ducks athlete in history, the relationship between Pre, Nike, and the University of Oregon are all inexorably intertwined.  A “Track Town USA” banner hangs above Hayward field, with Prefontaine’s image overlooking the oval.  And his famous quote “A lot of people run a race to see who is fastest. I run to see who has the most guts” is emblazoned in large letters above the doors in the Nike company store.  We pay a visit to Pre’s Rock, the site of his fatal car crash in 1975 that tragically ended his life at age 24.  A small stone plaque with his image stands at the site, and runners continually leave sneakers, jerseys and other tokens of remembrance in his honor.

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From there, we file into Rennie’s Landing, a homey, two story pub in the heart of Eugene for some mid morning refreshment.  Sliding into a few empty wooden tables, it’s a token college town saloon.  A few flat screen TV’s flash away in the corner, and an impressive selection of Oregonian microbrews line the taps.  Naturally, we kick the morning off with a round of Irish Car Bombs prior to sampling a handful of offerings from Deschutes, Widmer and Ninkasi breweries.  The hours pass quickly in good company, and shortly after popping the last cheesy bacon tater tot into my mouth, we’re off to the stadium where a late afternoon kickoff awaits.

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As the game kicks off, Autzen roars to life.  This place gets loud, L-O-U-D.  It’s among the loudest stadiums I have ever been in, which given the modest size of the venue (60,000 capacity), speaks to an ardent fan base.  Having visited about half the Pac 12 by now, I was expecting the casual, aloof, “whatever brah” West Coast attitude that permeates the culture at some of the other venues.  Not so at Oregon.  These people are passionate, boisterous, continually on their feet and screaming themselves hoarse for as long as the game remains competitive (which, to be fair, usually isn’t long in Eugene).  The raucous atmosphere in Autzen is among the best that college football has to offer.

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On the field, the game proves more competitive than a typical Ducks contest, most of which are blowouts midway through the second quarter.  The fast tempo Ducks offense sputters, as UCLA plays impressive containment defense and forces a couple of fumbles from the Oregon ground attack.  At halftime the score is knotted at 14, and despite UCLA’s lofty #12 ranking, Ducks fans stand bewildered at the close score.  They’re a spoiled bunch in Autzen….

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As the second half winds on, Oregon starts gaining momentum.  Heisman contenting quarterback Marcus Mariota starts finding his rhythm as the UCLA defense starts to tire against the breakneck pace.  Finally, in the fourth quarter, the Ducks blow the game open and the route is on.  Mariota connects with WR Bralon Addison for a touchdown, and shortly thereafter speedy tailback Byron Marshall rumbles for his third touchdown on the day.  The hapless UCLA defense is smoked, and great gashes open up for the Ducks to pour through.  Oregon lights up the scoreboard for 21 points in the fourth frame, and skates away in their customary blowout fashion with a final tally of 42-14.

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In the end, Oregon is easily the best venue I have visited in the Pac 12 thus far and it would take a goliath effort from some of the remaining schools to unseat them.  For the past few years, they have dominated competition in the conference with their unique brand of hurry-up, explosive offense, and oft overlooked stout defense.  The roar of Autzen Stadium is like watching a game from inside a jet engine, and the Oregon faithful are a rowdy, boisterous bunch.  Even the town of Eugene has a charmingly smaller, college town vibe solely dedicated to supporting the Ducks.  The University of Oregon is truly a sublime Saturday experience in the Pac 12.  Now if only they could convince Phil Knight to tone down those jerseys…

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Thanks to Rob and Nozomi for giving us the full tour of both Nike and Eugene, and being such incredible tour guides the entire weekend!

Thank you to Ruth for the gracious hospitality, and allowing me to visit Oregon once again.  Can’t wait for some more pies next year!

Thank you to Donovan for prodding us out of bed early on Saturday, buying way too many shots, and making the trip an absolute blast.

Thanks of course to Colin for another amazing Beaver State experience, can’t wait to see what we plan for next year man!

Full Clickable Gallery Below:

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