A sixteen year odyssey across the backroads of America during the ultimate College Football roadtrip.

Tag: 2013 (Page 5 of 7)

Atlanta BBQ Battle: Heirloom Market vs Fox Bros…

Although a familiar refrain this season, only moments after touching down in Hartsfield Atlanta Airport, I am gleefully awaiting my order at one of the finer barbecue establishments in the city.  In what has become a thriving barbecue scene in Atlanta, Heirloom Market BBQ – with their unique brand of American and Korean BBQ fusion – has quickly asserted itself as one of the best in the city.  Tucked off the side of Interstate 285, I pull into the parking lot of a shady convenience store, the kind of place with bars on the windows and a rainbow assortment of bum wines.  A red vinyl banner hanging over a corner of the building announces Heirloom Market, the tiny joint tucked inside a small side building.

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My friend Katy greets me there, her tailored blue dress and matching pumps elegantly out of place among the usual rabble.  Although a staunch vegetarian, she graciously agreed to meet me here and give an appropriate evaluation of the rotating menu of crafted side dishes at Heirloom.  An avid chef and purveyor of Squash Blossom Kitchens, a local boutique catering company, Katy has a developed palette despite those dubious dietary restrictions. Squash Blossom Kitchens Website

I order up the “Texas Trinity” an appropriate name for my usual order of brisket, pork ribs and sausage, and an acknowledgment of the joints Texas roots.  We round out the order with some spicy mac & cheese, kimchi cole slaw and a cucumber radish salad.  Once our number is called, we retreat to one of the few, standing only, outdoor tables under the shade of a pop up tent.  Standing next to a few of their custom built, Southern Pride smokers, it’s an easy glimpse into the workhorses behind their reputed fare.

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True to its reputation, the barbecue here is excellent all the way around.  The brisket was heavily smoked with a pronounced smoke ring and well developed bark.  The only fault with the brisket is that it had dried out a bit, and some fresher slices probably would have been better.  The sausage was fair, while it’s house made (a move that I typically applaud), it had an overpowering sweetness that just didn’t agree with my palette.  Ribs, however, were expertly cooked with a deep pink color inside and pulled from the bone with a slight tug.  They had a delicately sweet profile with a touch of Korean influence, but the flavors worked perfectly.  These are first class ribs all the way around.  Even the hand crafted sides here have a nice attention to detail, the spicy mac and cheese in particular was completely ravaged.

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My appetite satiated, but not dead, I decided to squeeze in an epic BBQ doubleheader before the Georgia Tech game.  Fox Brothers BBQ with their Texas roots and one of the most decorated joints in Atlanta would be the perfect head to head comparison with the fare at Heirloom.  After a quick jaunt down the highway, I pull into the gravel parking lot and take a seat, jostling to make room for my second meal only 30 minutes later.

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Here, I order my typical brisket and pork rib combo, but after hearing legends about their wings, I toss an order in for some poultry to complete the trifecta.  Rounding out the order is a side of mac & cheese, as well as Brunswick Stew – an elusive southern bbq staple.  A few minutes later, the waitress sets the heaping platter in front of me, and I’m elbow deep in another couple pounds of meat.

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The brisket here is well cooked, and delightfully, they provide slices from the fattier point end of the brisket – always the more flavorful side of the cut.  While the protein is cooked appropriately with well rendered fat, the meat isn’t as smoky as I would have hoped for and could have benefited from a few more logs on the fire.  Baby Back ribs are cooked well, but a bit on the dry side, although the savory rub really accentuates the sweet flavor of the pork.  The wings, true to reputation, were sublime.  Perfectly crispy on the outside, and delectably smoky and pull apart tender on the inside, they really are about as good as chicken wings get.  Brunswick stew was hearty and delicious, and reminded me of a summer in North Carolina where I routinely ate it with a pile of ribs.  It’s a side dish I wish a few more Texas places would readily adopt.

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In the end, the Atlanta BBQ scene certainly impressed, their pork is expectedly top notch and they and had some of the better briskets I’ve found outside of the state of Texas.  Oddly enough, since both of these joints have Texas roots (both founders have ties to Texas) it’s no accident that they have risen to the top of the Atlanta BBQ heap.  If you forced me to choose one, I’d probably have to give the nod to Heirloom Market – their brisket has a better smoke profile, and the ribs are absolutely perfect.  But on a day when you get to eat BBQ twice in the span of an hour, everybody is a winner in my book….

Special thanks to my friend Katy for accompanying me on the BBQ trip, and a broader culinary tour of the thriving Atlanta food scene!

Full clickable gallery below:

 

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Georgia Tech vs Virginia Tech: Ramblin’ Wreck wrecked by the other Tech…

After an appalling Thursday afternoon of gluttony, chowing my way through some of the finer BBQ establishments in Atlanta, I head towards the Georgia Tech campus for a primetime night tilt against ACC foe Virginia Tech.  An urban campus located in the heart of downtown Atlanta, the school lacks the small town charm and sprawling lawns of more traditional southern campuses.  One of the most prestigious technical universities in the South, Georgia Tech is rife with accolades and highly accomplished alumni.  But I’m here for football, and with their unique brand of triple option offense, the Yellow Jackets are known for giving opposing defenses fits, and would be an interesting squad to witness first hand.   

I shoehorn my rental into a free parking spot on 5th Avenue and hoof if the mile towards campus.  Strolling towards the stadium, I stop in at Barnes & Noble which has taken over as the official university bookstore for Georgia Tech.   I’m there to meet up with my college football doppelganger – Taylor Mathis – in town to promote his new book.  A Wisconsin Badger alum and photographer by trade, Taylor has traveled extensively to some high profile college games across the country, and the list of places he has been nearly rivals mine.   Documenting the unique and colorful culinary traditions he’s found along the way, Taylor keeps a blog: http://taylortailgates.com/, which has manifested into an impressive book project. With hundreds of breathtaking photos of the various foods and tailgating traditions found at each school, Taylor has put together a cookbook featuring some of the finest recipes that he’s encountered on his travels.  It’s a must own for any college football fan, and the photos alone make it a mouth watering addition to your coffee table.

You can order his book here: Amazon Link

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Taylor and I chat for a few minutes about our shared travels before I head down to Tech Wood Avenue, one of the main approaches to Bobby Dodd Stadium. Frat parties line the streets and spill out onto the lawns, while a few RV’s have staked out spots in the parallel parking spaces.  For the guys, the uniform dujour appears to be a starched white oxford shirt, khaki pants and topsider shoes worn without socks.  The entire ensemble completed, of course, with a southern “swoop” haircut, delicately feathered over the forehead.  Girls wear open toe shoes and flimsy white dresses.  I, along with the entire male population of Atlanta, pray for rain…

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As I close in towards the stadium, the pomp and brass of entrance ceremonies can be heard in the distance.  Soon, the Georgia Tech band, led by the “Ramblin Wreck” – a 1930 Ford Model A Sport Coupe, marches down Bobby Dodd Avenue to enter the stadium.  A few cheerleaders hang off the running boards, and the driver lays on the old school “AAOOOGAHH” car horn.  As a “yellow jacket” would be a rather inconvenient live mascot, the Ramblin’ Wreck serves as the official mascot of the school and leads the football team into every home game.  While a mechanical mascot is an appropriate choice for a technical school, the Wreck is completely financed by the student Ramblin’ Reck Club, and receives no official university funding.  The driver is elected annually by the club, and with only 46 of them in history, the position is considered one of the most prestigious at the Institute.

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After the entrance ceremonies, I circle the stadium on the hunt for a ticket.  A few minutes later, strolling through the crowd with my index finger waving in the air, a guy walks up and hands me a free ticket from a handful in his grasp.  Before I can even get his name, he trots off into the crowd and disappears into the sea of white jammed onto Bobby Dodd Avenue.  Proof yet again for all my readers that game tickets should be the least of your concerns when heading out for a college football adventure.

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Entering historic Bobby Dodd Stadium on the Southwest side, one would be hard pressed to tell that this is the oldest stadium in College Football.  Some recent facelifts have given the interior fresh pours of concrete and sparkling aluminum hand rails that belie the true age of the historic structure.  Originally built in 1913, the stadium is actually celebrating its 100th anniversary this evening, at least according to my souvenir drink cup.  But the Virginia Tech Hokies will be a far cry from the first game at Grant Field on September 27th, 1913 against Fort McPherson.  A game that the Yellow Jackets won 19-0.

Although my free ticket is located on the second deck in Section 215, I squeeze into the white oxford masses of student section 19 to enjoy the game amongst my khaki wearing brethren.  With anticipation for kickoff building, students excitedly wave white pom pom shakers that have been taped to the bleachers as part of the historic evening.  But when the contest kicks off, Virginia Tech and their egregious stone pattern helmets, assume immediate control.  The Yellow Jackets, wearing pleasantly simple throwback uniforms, fumble on only their fourth play from scrimmage and the Hokies recover.  Two quick plays later, Virginia Tech finds the endzone and jumps out to a quick 7-0 lead.  Tech would continue their sloppy play throughout the first half, fumbling a couple of times and running headlong into the opposing Hokie defense to no avail.

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At halftime, Georgia Tech Football All Americans are honored at a midfield ceremony as part of the 100 year Anniversary, before the Ramblin’ Wreck leads the team back out of the tunnel.  In the second half, the Yellow Jacket offense finds a bit of rhythm, and their triple option reels off a 14 play, eight minute touchdown drive to close the score to 14-10.  But in the fourth frame, they sputter once again.  Stymied on a couple of drives by the well engineered Hokie defense, Ga Tech QB Vad Lee throws a critical interception with two minutes remaining to effectively end the game.  The Hokies escape with a 17-10 victory on the strength of their increasingly stout defense.

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While in the end, I certainly tend to favor the sprawling lawns, ample tailgating and open green spaces of more remote southern campuses, Georgia Tech is certainly an impressive and tradition laden program.  Given the extraordinary Atlanta food scene nearby, and a primetime ACC tilt against a premier division opponent, it’s definitely a place worth putting on your college football radar.

Thank you to my new friend Taylor, for taking a few minutes to chat.  It was great to finally meet you and best of luck on the new book!

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Virginia vs VMI – Cavaliers drub the Keydets…

We’re racing down a windy stretch of Highway 33 bisecting the Shenandoah Valley in western Virginia.  Rain pelts the windshield as Colin mashes the unresponsive accelerator of the feeble four cylinder Hyundai Elantra.  We wind the beige comet through the dense fog of switchback mountain roads, and down into the broad, lush green valleys below.  On any other day, this would be a breathtaking drive, but in the thick white mist, visibility is nil.  Despite the inclement weather, western Virginia is magnificent country.

We’re running late.  Way late.  We had spent the morning at a “Go Ruck: Nasty” event, a six mile outdoor adventure race inspired by military obstacle courses.  Colin, my Oregon State cohort from last year, had agreed to run the race with a couple friends.  After a quick 6 mile morning jog, he assured us he’d be ready to make the quick hop into Charlottesville for a late afternoon ACC tilt.

Another friend Tim, a classmate from Notre Dame and ardent follower of the Pigskin Pursuit, and I both agreed to spectate this goofy event from the confines of the $1.00 beer tents.  A far more palatable option than, you know, actually running.  I hadn’t seen Tim since the BCS National Championship game this past January, and, with an eerie unspoken agreement, neither of us brought up the repressed nightmare of that awful evening.  Instead, we spent the better part of the morning nursing a few Yuengling drafts, lamenting the current sad state of the Irish squad and chuckling while mud covered race goers hurled themselves over logs, wooden walls and cargo nets.  It was like watching a live Japanese game show.

Following the misty post race drive, we arrive in Charlottesville, and with only 30 minutes to spare before kickoff, there is little time to hunt for free parking.  I begrudgingly point us into a spot on the lawn of a dingy student house on Jefferson Park Avenue.  The gawky undergrad waving us in tries to hustle us for $30, but I barter him down to $20 strictly on principle.  With little time to spare, Tim and I quickly don our rain gear while Colin changes out of his mud crusted shirt and shoes. With a steady rain continuing to fall, it’s going to be a soggy afternoon.

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We hustle straight towards Scott Stadium and when the first scalper I see has a handful of seats together on the 30 yard line, we pry them off him for $20 bucks a pop.  Ordinarily, I certainly could have hunted around for a better deal, but we can already hear the faint sounds of the band brass warming up on the field.  Racing into the stadium, I park into my seat with only eight minutes remaining until kickoff, just early enough to see the Virginia Cavalier rider streak out of the tunnel mounted on “Sabre” a chestnut colored thoroughbred horse.

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Predictably, the game proves to be a lopsided affair.  Despite a few initial turnovers in the first quarter, a couple errant throws by Cavalier Quarterback David Watford, the VMI Keydets are completely outmatched by the Virginia Squad.  Beginning in the second quarter, UVA mounts drive after drive, marching methodically down the field on the strength of a pounding rushing attack.  After each successive Cavaliers score, the crowd locks arms and sways to the “Good Old Song”, a defacto alma mater for the university with a chorus that shares the same tune as “Auld Lang Syne”.  Although the game is already a 35 point blowout midway through the third quarter, we stay through the entirety of the contest.  Sheltering under the grandstands while the rain intensifies, Virginia continues their romp on the field, eventually running away with a 49-0 blowout.  With all those touchdowns, the “Good Old Song” is now seared into our collective ears for the evening like a catchy pop tune…

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After the game we take a detour through the University of Virginia campus, widely reputed to be one of the most picturesque in the country.  Even in a steady downpour, the campus is a magnificent example of Jeffersonian Architecture.  Designed by Thomas Jefferson himself, “The Lawn” is a terraced stretch of grass flanked by white columned arcades on three sides.  Behind the white colonnades, sturdy brick structures house student dormitories, each of them a numbered Pavilion 1 thru 10.  Living in “The Lawn” is considered a privilege among UVA students, only “4th years” are permitted to live here, and after applying the chosen few are selected based on academic standing and leadership.  The entire quadrangle is anchored by the iconic Rotunda at the North end, a white columned homage to the Roman Pantheon built at ½ scale.  While the Lawn and Rotunda are enduring symbols of the University of Virginia and architectural landmarks in their own right, Jefferson’s design has since inspired countless centralized “quads” on university campuses across the country.

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From there, we crowd into the White Spot and straddle three stools in the landmark Charlottesville diner.   The walls are covered with pictures of the owner – Dmitri Tevampis, who poses with armloads of attractive coeds in every photo.  Peering up at the backlit menu board the “One Helluva Mess” catches my eye, but we’re here for the burgers on the recommendation of my friend Jared, a die hard UVA alum.  The “Double Gus Burger” specifically, is what I’m told to order, a double cheeseburger with a fried egg cracked on top.  Served between a soft white bun, the gooey patties are the perfect gut bomb after an afternoon in the rain, and they’d probably taste even better at 2AM after serious shift in one of the many local watering holes.

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After the deliciously greasy burger, we note some of the eating records tacked up on the walls.  A former student named Rich Pierce seems to own a handful of them, having downed 8 Gus Burgers in only 6 minutes during his belt busting run from 1995-1997; an impressive pace of one burger every 45 seconds.  Exiting the tiny diner, a few pubs look like a tempting retreat from the steady rain, but unfortunately this is only a day trip.  The impressive “C’Ville” nightlife will have to wait until my next visit, perhaps with an appropriate UVA tour guide in tow…

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Thank you to my friend Colin for putting this trip out there, and manning the wheel down to Charlottesville.  Next time, run faster man!  Looking forward to the Ducks game in a few weeks.

Thank you to my friend Tim for all the support on the PigskinPursuit over the years, and finally getting together for a game!  Really looking forward to a Virginia Tech experience next year with you and Suzie!!!

Thank you to my friend, and UVA Alum, Jared for the recommendations and insight into the Cavalier experience.  Really looking forward to coming back to C’Ville with you for a full weekend sometime…

Full clickable gallery below:

 

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NC State vs Clemson – Wolfpack defanged by the Tigers…

It’s barely twenty minutes after landing in Raleigh, North Carolina and I’m already bellied up to a BBQ counter.  I’m parked on a stool at the iconic Clyde Coopers BBQ on Davie Street in downtown Raleigh.  Dishing out epic Carolina style pork since 1938, the joint stands as the oldest continuously operated BBQ in the state of North Carolina.  The walls are covered in old BBQ photos and ancient wooden booths, worn smooth over decades of use, still have built in coat racks – relics of a bygone era. Sadly these artifacts are about to see the working end of a wrecking ball, however, as the current owners of the restaurant have been unable to come to terms with the developer that purchased the historic building.  As such, they will be forced to move the iconic location in a few months and try to salvage as much of the “feel” of the old place as they can.

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While the atmosphere has all the classic charm of 75 years of service, when my food arrives, it heartbreakingly disappoints.   Having spent a summer in Raleigh a few years before, this is particularly hard for me to reconcile, as Clyde’s held high esteem in my BBQ rolodex after a handful of visits.  But my BBQ palette has expanded quite a bit since those days, and the food here has declined from what I remember.  The chopped pork was minced so finely that it hardly resembled protein anymore, although a nice vinegary North Carolina style sauce helped bring it back to life.  The ribs arrived red sauced, presumably grilled, and absent any smoky flavor.  What’s more, they were incredibly tough and chewy.  I yanked them from the bone like a jackal tearing at a dead water buffalo hide.  Golden hush puppies and thick Brunswick stew were the highlights; a few items I wish would make it onto Texas BBQ menus.

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With a brilliant Thursday afternoon in front of me, I wander the streets of downtown Raleigh to get a feel for the city.  I stroll past the monolithic state capitol building, walkways shaded with magnificent live oaks and southern magnolias.  A bronze statue of Andrew Jackson, James Polk and Andrew Johnson honors the three North Carolina borne presidents on the main walkway, flanked by old mortars and cannons.  Through the trees, an inspiring 75ft tall granite obelisk pokes through the canopy, the carved inscription reading “To our Confederate Dead”.  It’s the Confederate Soldiers Monument dedicated to the North Carolinians sacrificed during the Civil War, a state responsible for nearly a quarter of all Confederate casualties.

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From there, I find my way into the cramped confines of the Roast Grill, a tiny Raleigh hot dog staple since 1940.  Little more than a linoleum countertop and stainless steel grill, they have only one thing on the menu here: hot dogs.  Your only choices are 1. How many you want (they are linear priced at $2.50 apeice according to the “menu”), 2. How burnt you want them, and 3. what you want on them.  I order two – one with mustard and onion, the other with the “works” – mustard, onion, chili and slaw.   Delightfully, ketchup is absent from their entire establishment, as their T-Shirt slogan proudly reads “No Ketchup”.  After my meal, an old lady that looks like she may have been here since day one rings up my tab on an ancient punch button cash register (this is a cash only establishment) and tosses me a free tootsie roll for dessert.  While the dogs are pretty average, the Roast Grill becomes an instant classic on my travels.

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IMG_0299I take a quick campus visit, admire the iconic NC State granite belltower for a few minutes, and then shoot west a couple miles on Hillsboro Avenue towards Carter Finley Stadium.  Carved into a stretch of southern yellow pine forest abutting Interstate 40, the stadium is unfortunately removed from the bustle of campus and downtown Raleigh.  PNC Arena, home to the NC State basketball squad, is also located within this massive athletic complex. As such, the stadium is surrounded by great swaths of pavement, gravel and grass lots, revealing a surprisingly robust tailgating scene.  Red tents stretch in every direction and the smell of smoked hog wafts enticingly around me.  I spot a few untended racks of ribs on a grill and, for a moment, consider a snatch and run. But rib rustlin’ isn’t looked on too kindly in these parts, and my Yankee brogue is unlikely to talk me out of a skirmish.  And after the eating I’ve already done today, I’m not outrunning anyone…

I mill around Dail Plaza on the North end of the stadium, haggling with a few scalpers to see what the going rates are.  With #3 Clemson in town they’re asking a pretty penny.  The first one, mistaking me for a rube, tosses out a $200 price tag for a single and sneers when I belligerently laugh in his face and walk away.   After a little hunting, I hammer a guy down to $50 bucks for a premium 50 yard line seat 20 rows up from the field; still under face value of $65.  As I take my seat, students continue to fill in the sections across the field, exchanging boisterous chants of “Wolf”…”Pack” back and forth while an eerie wolf howl booms over the loudspeakers.  A few NFL scouts ascend the steps from the field, each of them wearing plastic yellow “scout” badges with the respective team names across the front.  From the looks of it, the Cleveland Browns, Atlanta Falcons and Kansas City Chiefs are all represented to inspect some of the ACC talent taking warm-ups on the field.

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As the national anthem concludes, four prop planes streak overhead, leaving trails of exhaust behind them.  The flyover is a nice touch, all too rare in these days of military spending cut backs. With more piped in wolf howling and an impressive pyrotechnics show, the Wolfpack squad comes streaming out of the tunnel to the cacophony of the now jam packed bleachers.   A few moments later, as the sun sets over Carter Finley Stadium, the pigskin is booted into the night air.  Electricity flows through the red garbed crowd at that moment, eager for their team to upset the highly ranked Clemson Tigers.

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True to form, the Wolfpack comes out snarling.  While the Clemson offense is able to move the ball, the NC State defense stiffens up in the red zone, holding the Tigers to field goals.  The pack defense further stymies Heisman hopeful quarterback Tajh Boyd, who tosses the ball errantly for incompletions and gets stuffed into the Bermuda turf for a couple of sacks.  At the end of the first half, a card stunt is performed and the silhouette of the Wolfpack logo forms across the East bleachers.  As the cards are turned over for the second stunt, it spells out “This is our State”.   The energized crowd continues their raucous support, at the end of the first half Clemson clutches to a thin 13-7 lead.

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Midway through the third quarter, with the NC State defense stifling Clemson and the Pack offense gaining momentum, a blown call seismically shifts the game.  NC State receiver Bryan Underwood grabs the ball on a reverse and streaks 83 yards down the field on a blistering touchdown run to seemingly knot the game at 13.  The crowd erupts in jubilation, high fives are exchanged, and, for a moment, the Wolfpack owns the momentum.  But the bungling referees whistled Underwood out of bounds at the 47 yard line, reversing the touchdown.  Adding further insult to injury, because the play was whistled dead, it is not reviewable by instant replay.  Despite the jumbotron flashing evidence that the touchdown should stand, State head coach Dave Doeren is powerless to toss his red challenge flag. NC State assumes the ball at the controversial 47 yard line.  Boos rain down from all corners of Carter Finley stadium, and a few drink cups are tossed into the air in protest.

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Three plays later, NC State quarterback Pete Thomas coughs the ball up on a sack and fumble recovery by the Tigers.  Clemson capitalizes a few plays later, punching in a touchdown for a two score lead.  Instead of a 13-13 tie ballgame and NC State pressing midway through the third quarter, the bad call and a few bad plays now result in a commanding 20-7 lead for Clemson.  The energy in Carter Finley visibly deflates, and the Tigers would never look back from that point.  While the NC State crowd would resume their raucous support in spurts on a pristine Thursday night, Clemson would eventually roll to a 26-14 victory, defending their lofty #3 ranking.

Full Clickable gallery below:

 

 

 

 

 

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